Exhausts

The exhaust is split into 4 parts;

Header or tubular exhaust manifold

Downpipe from header to cat with lambda sensor in it

Catalytic converter

Cat back exhaust.

Most replacements are cat-back systems.

Headers normally replace the stock header and downpipe with one part

 

Roadster had a catalytic warning light to indicate whether the cat is overheating; this is an extra probe into the back of the cat ;The stuff written on your visor is very helpful here - it tells you to stop the car as soon as possible in an area where there isn't any inflammable material. Turn off the engine, wait for it to cool and get your dealer to inspect the car ASAP. The sensor just goes to earth when overheated to melt down… it is not connected to the ECU. Note that my ’94 1.8 Eunos had as standard a special down pipe which allowed a 1.6 cat (in US sizes) to be used – this cat has horizontal flanges front and back and is 13" long – the US 1.8 cat is 15" long and has a front flange bolt pattern that is tilted by 30 degrees (standard 1.6 pattern has the flange bolts horizontal – the flanges are all tilted) . So watch it if replacing cats on 1.8 Eunos cars.

 

After 1996 (OBD-ii) cars were fitted with a second O2 sensor so that cat failure could be reported . (US… so UK??)

Note that early 1.8 Roadsters have 1.6 cats fitted with longer front downpipes

Note that some UK cars have longer cats with shorter cat back exhausts 47.5cm long cats

Note 1.6 cat has straight bolt patterns front and back while the 1.8 has a 45 degree straight pattern at the front and is longer (even is std form).

Cats

There are a couple of high performance Cats out there.

Jackson Racing do a reasonable N/A one but they fall apart…

Flyin Miata do a higher flow one that holds together but is so high flow that it does not warm up enough for MOT tests in some cases.. so hold onto the old one.

 

Cat-back exhausts

J. P. Exhausts

Macclesfield Cheshire 01625 619916, stainless with lifetime guarantee

Falcon Automotive,

Ilkeston, Derby 0115 9440366, stainless with lifetime guarantee made exhausts for Jackson Racing contact Phil Millington

Mongoose,

01260 298500, Congleton, Cheshire, SS £270 with 3.5" ‘rolled into pipe’ tail http://guest.btinternet.com/~collinsperf/

Magnex exhausts:

: stainless steel, cat back, 195 plus VAT, full system (incl manifold and cat pipe); 295 + VAT. These were for a 94+ car, mind. manifold is a posey 4-1 job

Stewart Performance

exhaust costs A$351 including insurance plus A$43 for shipping by sea or A$113 by air. In real money, that’s approximately £154 by sea or £181 by air.

Custom

– cost form £270 to £500 and allows you to put the spare wheel under the car – what I have

Ultimate Custom ; 3" from the firewall to a 3" ID $45 DynoMax glasspack perforated glass pack where the cat used to be... 3" to the differential, then split a 2 1/2" pipe around each side of spare tire... 3" chrome tips, about 14 inches long.

The Toby Weir-Jones way; the config has a straight pipe coming back to the diff, a custom curved splitter assembly that goes around the diff and the subframe brace, then splits off to two glasspacks at 45-deg angles to the rear bumper line. The outlets are then angled again out the tail of the car.

Classic Exhaust Engineers in Egham.

Stainless cat back system all straight through 3 inch bore 4 inch silencer near cat, Y piece to split system in two
two rear 5 inch silencers joined and hung together as one in centre of car twin DTM 3 inch tailpipes
£425 inc VAT, Fitting and lifetime warranty. All hand made to fit the car and excellent quality.

Others

Mk2 Borla from PBC $280, plus $160 UPS shipping plus £60 for import duty and VAT. Total: £335 approx.

Dealer Alternative singles, duals and turbos, Dealer Alternative duals; some have fitted Cherry Bomb DIVER fitted after cat for FM duals .. the new FM duals come with a box here as standard. (25" length, 58mm id, 89 od.)

Moss etc in UK do others..

Donutz do ILM dual SS exhaust for £350

Torque Developments are doing some tasty sounding HKS systems; not as pricey as you might think: Stage 1 upgrade: (4 BHP) Exhaust system. All types are 'cat-back' fitment. http://www.tdi-plc.com/MazdaMX5.html
HKS single 83mm tail £380.00 1 hour
'Super Drager' exhaust single 106mm tail £485.00 1 hour
HKS duals 76mm each side of vehicle £700.00
PECO rear box £138
Powerflow system £250
Scorpion System £282
Kwik Fit Jobbie (pipe from cat & box ) £130

Andy Thomson’s review of exhausts;

Stainless Steel:
Magnex; about 260-270. Nice finish. Some say it works well, others complain about poor fit and slightly wimpy exhaust note, but thats a matter of personal preference. Cat pipe extra.

Scorpion: 240-260 incl a cat replacement pipe. Nicely finished, 3" tip. A bit loud.

Mongoose: Finished fairly well. Nothing really on it to advertise its a Mongoose. 3.5" tip can give some fitment problems, but easily fixed. Not as loud as Scorpion, but I like it (quite deep, tendancy to "pop" when hot on the over run). About 250-280. No cat pipe.

Rotechniks: Anyone have this. Pricey at around 400. Full system is "race only", by which I assume the mid section replaces the old piping and catalyst, so not really road legal on MX5's after 93 (Roadsters are a different story). See:
http://www.rotechniks.co.uk/

Borla: more difficult to get hold of in the UK. Generally has big thumbs up in the US. Warranty may not apply in UK, which is a bit worrying as there have been some manufacturing glitches, and packing problems. Loud. About 300-350?

Thermal Research (M- Roadster). Very nicely finished (I would say approaching jap standards). Nice sound thats quite deep. Again question mark over warranty. 350-400 by the time you get it over?

Peco: apparently do a stainless steel system. Unknown price, but probably a little cheaper than the competition.

Power Flow: Bespoke fitments, using generic South African components on site. Tips etc fully customisable. Odd construction to back boxes which might not last, but lifetime warranty. How good they are I guess depends on the franchise fitting them.

Europa Specialist Spares (Cobra bits); list a stainless steel system, apparently modelled on the stock pattern. A ridiculous 400 plus vat. Don't have their number, but they're Burton way.

BBR can also apparently do (implied on their website:
http://www.bbrgti.demon.co.uk/BBRStuff/Mazda/Mazda.htm)

Speedlab quote about $200 shipping for systems. ie. their cheapest would work out about $900-1000 shipped. Yikes. Very nice centred twin exhausts for the deep-of-pockets. (I've seen these on a Roadster going around town; twin upswept pipes TR6 style.) See
http://www.speedlab.com/ to drool. (lots of stuff for the Roadster, and its all in english with dollar prices)

TDI do HKS systems for £380-485
http://www.tdi-plc.com/MazdaMX5.html

Moss: is this made by some well known company like Sebring


Plus
Mild steel/aluminised systems

Remus: discussed recently. Black painted steel boxes with stainless innards? Only one to have square tailpipe (besides Power Flow, on which you can have anything you like...)


Timax: cheapy steel system. 80-90. Actually quite well finished with a chromed exhaust tip.
Bosal (sold by MX5parts). 109.
Peco: 150ish, 2 year warranty
Janspeed also do an aluminized steel version of their S1

Gas flow;

"If my calculations are correct an FM turbo exhaust should flow at least 560 CFM (in other words as effective as a 2.5 straight pipe.) Also what is the flow rate of the High Flow Cat used in this system... I'm wondering how much power is lost in the exhaust. If it were an Ideal world a 300 HP miata would have about 660 CFM, a 250 HP miata would be at 550 CFM to minimize power loss from exhaust muffling to less than 1%." Mark Peugout


Cat Death;

"There are a number of reasons.,

Cats can melt due to continuing to drive with a misfire. This causes unburnt fuel to be exhausted into the tailpipe and depending on temperatures along the exhaust pipe, will ignite at some point. This is usually on the cat surface since this is the hottest point. Thus an 'explosion' occurs which can break the cat.

Other causes are possibly 'thermal shock' which result from driving through puddles etc. hot-to-cold.

Otherwise it may be due to poor throttle set-up; For efficient emission control the cat should be kept at >200 Celsius, preferably around 400-600. At WOT the ECU usually delivers extra fuel into the exhaust system which is unburnt, this cools the catalyst. (Don't ask me why misfires explode but overfuelling cools???-ask a combustion expert - I think it's to do with quantities). If your ECU does not see WOT then you don't get the cooling effect. (Note this is why fuel economy drops when driving hard).

Also, the car is fitted with an Oxygen Sensor. This measures the amount of Oxygen in the exhaust and transforms this into a voltage. The ECU uses this voltage to add/reduce the amount of fuel, switching from lean to rich. if this is faulty then you are getting an incorrect mixture leading to incorrect combustion, leading to high temperatures.

Catalysts melt down at approximately 1100 Celsius (melting point of the materials). Hard driving will see around 960 Celsius.

Hole in exhaust system before the Oxygen sensor. Because this in effect measures the combustion, i.e. Air/Fuel Ratio, because the sensor sees extra oxygen the ECU thinks the engine is running lean thus adds more fuel when in fact, within the combustion area (bore), combustion was actually O.K.

More fuel = explosion type things going on in around the cat area = melt down.

Holes are usually due to: rust, Cracked weld seams, leaking gaskets.

PS. for those of you who have managed to read to this point, note the Heat Shield (Other topic of discussion) does two things; Protect the bonnet/other components from excessive heat.

Reflect heat back onto the manifold getting the operating temperature up quicker. This is to improve emissions. As previously stated, a Cat is most efficient >200 Celsius.

" Richard Gould

http://www.onlinemetals.com/ have material to make manifolds (US)

Custom tubular turbo exhaust manifold

"I can tell you some of the specifics on the manifold though. It is a non equal length 1.75 I.D. stainless steel manifold, and it cracked rather severely. The current one is closer to equal length and also is 1.75" I.D. piping with very short tubes. These headers are not easy to build and the last one had 5 expansion joints to combat cracking... only time will tell if it worked!!! Note that 304 SS for the manifold is difficult to do without intergranular corrosion due to heat and expansion. There are other forms of stainless that work well but may be very hard to find" Mark Peugeot

Are Carsound cats really the best ones out there? They look very well designed to me, with shallow flanges. Jason Cuadra

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/flangesandgaskets.htm

have flanges and gaskets for turbos etc for custom turbo systems

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecltechtips.htm is the root page under DIY/Hacker parts

Also exhausts, intercoolers

Check this out. Top of the page...turbo manifold for Garrett T25/28. $310. Might be a good DIY turbo kit manifold? http://www.corksport.com/miata/miaindex.html