From Ray Ayala unless stated.

The FM ECU operates the EGR using the same profile as the OEM ECU ... max at 80 kPa, off below 60 and above 100. That satisfies the pollution requirements and allows max ign adv without knock under cruise conditions.

Raising the idle map setting just disables the idle closed loop. A motor needs three things to idle ... air, fuel, and spark. Look at what the IAC is doing to see what's happening with the air inlet. If the IAC signal is going up but you still don't have enough air, the IAC is probably dirty and should be cleaned. Look at the O2 reading to see if you have enough (or too much) fuel as the rpm drops below the target rpm, and look at the ign adv. to see if you have too much for hot-weather idle. The idle speed control will add up to 5 deg timing when idle rpm is low, and some folks end up with too much advance when that happens.

For the benefit of Link 1.6 owners, multiply the PW ON numbers by 250 to get equivalent INJW values for these 1.6/550cc injectors, or by 313+ to get approximate equivalent 1.6/440cc injector pulse widths. That's about 2187+ at 5K rpm. If you have a Link chip prior to July/01 don't try this at home, because they are limited to a max of 2047 and will misfire if you try to go higher. And for Link 1.8/550 owners, multiply these numbers by 281+ to get approximate equivalent INJW values.

Shiv Pathak wrote: But FWIW, Link dyno testing was with 440cc injectors. Now, with the TEC-II, he's running 550cc injectors. So inj. on-times can't be compared without an additional conversion factor.

> > ...Here's the raw data from the last TEC-II run (252rwhp uncorrected): > > RPM MAP ADV PW ON (ms) Duty % > 3000 138 19 4.0 20 > 3500 167 17 5.2 30 > 4000 185 21 5.6 38 > 4500 194 23 6.7 50 > 5000 195 20 7.0 58 > 5500 192 22 6.8 62 > 6000 190 24 6.7 66 > 6500 190 24 6.8 73 > 7000 191 25 6.7 79 > > BTW, to determine boost (in kPa), subtract MAP by 108-110kPa (atmos. reading > at sea level.) Yes, there's a little bit of offset built into the MAP > sensor as well (208kPa=2 bar absolute).

Row 6 is 15-21 psi, centered at 18. The std map sensor quits at 22.

Alex, I also failed my test last year (rich) with row 1 O2 target set to 76 and row 2 set to 77. My rows 1 and 2 are now set to 72 and 77 (by Bob Rawle). The car passed with these settings, but I also put on the OE cat to make sure. I believe that the big FM cat wasn't getting warm enough or may have been cooling down during the 2 idle tests we have to pass here (natural idle 850 rpm and fast idle test at 2500 rpm), all in all they take a few minutes to complete. Steve Willington

"Good, but not too low HC, along with high O2 (indicated lean operation) generally indicates a weak cat. The cat should be causing most of the O2 to combine with what little HC is left. "Ray

"Further to my recent post on failing the lambda part of a 'trial' emissions test on the UK MOT, I've gone and looked at the Link display. I've found that in neutral, with revs held between 2400 and 2600rpm, my O2 reading is low (55-60). This will be why I failed the lambda component, as Ray, Bill and others suggested. Required values (on the MOT test equipment) are between 0.97 and 1.03. 1.0 is stoich. This is the ideal. I got 1.04 and then 1.08. Basically, under these circumstances, it's running lean. I'm guessing the Link won't auto-tune whilst in neutral so do I get a better O2 reading for a neutral rev range by just altering the fuel values in the appropriate zones? I'm still fairly new to all this, but I'm guessing I need to add fuel to 120 and 125 - correct? My results are as follows (as printed on the MOT slip): FAST IDLE TEST (30 seconds) Engine Speed: (2400-2600rpm) - [2550] - Pass CO: <0.30% - [0.14%] - Pass HC: <200ppm - [27ppm] - Pass Lambda: 0.97 to 1.03 - [1.084] Fail SECOND FAST IDLE TEST (30 seconds) Engine Speed: (2400-2600rpm) - [2508] - Pass CO: <0.30% - [0.00%] - Pass HC: <200ppm - [8ppm] - Pass Lambda: 0.97 to 1.03 - [1.043] Fail NATURAL IDLE TEST Engine Speed: (0750-950rpm) - [882rpm] - Pass CO: < 0.5% - [0.00%] Pass OVERALL RESULT Fail As you can see, I'm failing only on lambda. HC and CO is fine. Car is 40k mile 1.8 with new FM2/FM single turbo exhaust / hi-flow cat. All the best, Alex McLean

1.0 on the test equipment should be the same as 76 on the keypad except for the effects of the cat. Autotuning and L3 both work in neutral when the idle sw is off but their range is limited. I'd suggest setting the

1st two O2 targets both to 76 and manually adjusting the fuel zones (120 first at 2250 rpm, then 125 at 2750 rpm) with L3 on so that the displayed L3 status is 5.

Any of the airtemp chips work like this: Whenever you go into the boosted rows (and L3 is on), it looks at the average of the L3 corrections for the last two minutes, applies that, plus the airtemp correction and goes open loop, not trying to tune. So, IF these numbers cross over well to other cars (and I think they will, especially based on Mike B's comments), you would just go out and coarse/fine tune the unboosted rows, then turn on L3 and leave it alone. Bill Cardell

The new fuel maps and timing maps are the end result of a lot of testing that started with my car in June and then continued with Bill and Ken carrying on from there. As I am sure a lot of you have noticed, the default maps tended to be too aggresive on the timing and too lean on the fuel. Based on what I have seen of the maps from Ken's testing, Bill's testing, and what I have been able to do on my car as well, the new maps should be very close for fuel. Timing should also be close, but depends a LOT on the individual car. My car is very prone to knock and I cannot run more than about 12-15 degrees of total advance in the 5 row without knocking. Ken can run more timing that I can and Bill even more. The other thing to bear in mind is that the timing will affect the AF as well as the fuel map will.

These maps will be a very very good start and I think that you will see that the car will run alot smoother. If you want to see the bulk of the work, take a look at the fuel map curves for these maps using the MLL 3D mapping

for fuel and for timing. Then take a look at your old maps or the old default maps. I think you will see that they are very smooth in transition and the values are more on purpose row to row and zone to zone. This help not only with the zone to zone interpolation but the row to row interpolation as well.

You will still need to tune for knock in the 4,5 and 6 rows. You will also need to see how the power plots play with the fuel values. It seems that an InjW value of around 130-145 for the 1.6 cars and 110-130 for the 1.8 cars plays well. The amount of fuel and the overall AF that you need to run will be determined by the quality of the fuel and the amount of knock that you get. The lower the octane and the more knock prone your car is will determine the amount of fuel and timing that needs to be run. That is where the power graph function in MLL really shines. I am not sure if any of you have read the post, but we just got through tuning Rod Letcher's SC car via remote control. He would datalog the car, send me the log. I would make an analysis using MLL and the power plot, then make changes to timing and fuel, he would load the new map and log again. This was done for about 6 maps.When he was at the dyno last Friday, all he had to do was add a bit of timing to get to MBT and then beyond. This does illustrate how useful MLL can be in tuning off of the dyno if you use the power plotting function. Rod made about 173 rwhp and 174 ft/lbs. The MLL plots that we did showed the car at about 172 rwhp and 168 ft/lbs. Pretty close. He also added about 2 degrees of timing at the dyno before power started falling off beyond MBT. The nice thing was that with the water injection, FM IC and a bit a toluene, he was able to make it to MBT without any knock. Rod's timing is never any lower than 25 degrees and tapers up to 30 degrees by redline. He says that the power pull is very turbo like and does not fall off.

If you use the power graph function in connection with the new timing fixes and the new maps, just pay attention to the InjW plot and how it follows or does not follow the torque plot. That will give you a clue if you are too lean or too rich. I am going to upload all of the maps that Rod used to get him from where he was to where is is to LinkLab Exchange. If you take the time to follow the changes in the maps from one log to the next, paying special attention to how the maps were recurved and values changed, you will get a very good idea of what has been going on with the changes to the maps in general and what works very well.

The tuning emphasis has been on safe power and smoothness. Drivability being more important than peak power. With the recurves that I have done on my car and others ( have tuned about 12 cars now via email ;-)) the one thing that they all pretty much say is how much smoother and more drivable these type of maps are. With the extra FINE work that Ray has done on the timing and the Link software in general, and the things that have been learned about AF, EGT, and smooth map transitions, the FM/Link cars should be running better than ever. Jess

"When Bob Rawle of BR Developments (specialise in tuning Links on Scoobys) tuned my Link on the road he used 72, 77, 80, 84, 86, and 88 as O2 targets. 97 RON fuel" Steve Willington

Here's the DIY method: Use any tiny silicon signal diode, like 1N4148, or equivalent. Use a 14-pin straight shrouded PC-mount header for the connector. Cut the cathode (banded end) of the diode to about 1/4"long. Lay the diode between the rows of pins (pins 1-6), wrap the cut lead around pin 8, and solder it. Put a short length of insulation (about 0.4") over the other diode lead and fold it back over the top of diode body. Wrap the lead around pin 10 of the connector, solder it, and cut off the excess length. After testing it, cover the diode and all connector pins with RTV or epoxy to prevent accidentally shorting any unused pins to anything else (which could damage the ECU).

The Sept 2001 chips allow you to skip the key-on fuel prime, and that's a good thing to do if you just want to edit some zone values but not start the engine right afterward. To skip the prime, hold the throttle WOT from before you turn on the key until after the display or data log become active. And you can crank the engine without injecting any fuel as long as you stay at WOT. It's good for getting the oil pressure up after changing the oil filter, without actually starting the engine. P.S. this works only as long as RPM stays at normal cranking speed. If the plugs are removed, the engine may spin fast enough to start injection

EGR is 0-5V for EGT logging or Wide Band lambda

When the battery voltage is low, the injectors open more slowly but still close at normal speed. This makes the effective injector pulse width smaller and the fuel mixture leaner. The 'volts' parameter increases the pulse width when the voltage is lower to correct for this. It has nothing to do with increased alternator loading per se, unless something is wrong with the charging system and your battery voltage is falling substantially with the extra load.

The exclamation mark is because this "beyond 80%" needs your attention drawing to it.

The 5 of the 6 flags on the status line are:

EF - engine fan on

CF - condenser fan on

AC - air conditioning switch on

PR - PRC valve on

CP - Charcoal purge

LC - I don't know...Ray?

: how to prevent shift knock?I have had good luck lowering the timing in the row below the knock event and slightly in front of the knock event. If there is too much timing difference 3 to 4 row and 4 to 5 row around 4000-4500, which is where you will fall when you sift at redline, the boost pressure rises quickly and you can get knock transitioning up the rows. Taking timing from the 4 row when your peak boost puts you in the 5 row will not cost you that much power. I would try lowering the timing by about 1/2 to 1 degree right in front of and right below where it is knocking. You can also add about 2-4 points of fuel to see if you can cool it off that way. Jess -----

Z855 is now a new zone that control IAC response rate. The default in the chips is set to 20 (same as the older non-adjustable value) but some of you may have inadvertently set this zone to zero by reloading your previous zone file with an older version of MLL. If this value is set too low, the IAC will respond too quickly and cause the idle speed to oscillate. If it is set too high the IAC will respond sluggishly. Personally I like mine set to 25-30. BTW zones 835-845 are officially designated as spares, but if you put non-zero values in them experimental changes may happen to miscellaneous functions (different in different chips). IOW, leave them set to zero until further notice.

Any spark plug wires with an inductive spiral-wound core would probably work just as well, but the NGK blues are known to have the proper amount of inductance.

I expect that your friends use it in a fixed-duty-cycle mode rather than a fixed-boost-target mode. You'll probably need to do the same thing. To change to this mode, set all boost target zones (725-775) to the actual duty cycle you want for the solenoid valve. The ECU will recognise that all values are below 99 and switch modes automatically

The ! indicates that the fuel was cut off, in this case because the intake air temp is over 95degC. The * you mention is the open-loop boost control indicator.