There are 5 combinations of Mk1 Speedo heads out there;

1. UK - mph and 140 mph max
2. US = as UK but 'USE UNLEADED FUEL ONLY' at the bottom
3. Euro = as UK but kmph as main numbers
4. Japan/Eunos original (illegal in UK) = 180 kph max (to go with the 112mph speed limiter fitted)
5. Japan/Eunos fitted with printed face - this still is 180 kph but now has 100 mph as the maximum number in large writing.

They all have the same gearing/ratios but the maximum is higher on non Roadster speedos – 110 is at 4 O’clock on a Roadster but 2 O’clock on a Euro car .. hence Euro car speedo can read 140mph.

You can get a little in line gearbox to change to km to miles… so trip meter works and you add stickers to the face to change it to miles.. if you just go for replacement dial face on an Eunos Speedo the trip/odometer will still record in kms..

So then you come to aftermarket dials - these are all for the UK/US 140 mph style speedo head - you could get custom ones but.... if you want to know how much faster than 110 mph you are going you need a UK/US speedo;

1. UK scrapyard but be quick as they are the first thing to go..
2. US scrapyard - I got my first pair from Mazmart at about 80-100ea GBP
3. Mazda UK = 320 GBP if they would sell it to you!

Also if you have an Eunos… do you know it is speed limited to 112mph - this is easy on the 1.6 (remove a wire from the speedo), on the 1.8 this option is not so easy as the ECU uses the speedo cruise control output to control the speed and also control the engine (maybe... unknown what removing the speed sensing wire from speedo does)

According to the MOT hotline (0891-615977) your car IS illegal with a Kph only speedo For those that are interested and need to convince their dealer that the car should have miles and kilometres, the UK regulation is:-

The Road Vehicles ( Construction and Use ) Regulations 1986 - Regulation 35

The European Community directive is 75/443/EEC .

You can speak to the Vehicle Inspectorate direct on 01792 458888.

"I had to recalibrate my rev counter to work with the V8 (2x as many pulses per rev). The tacho works on ignition lt pulses, not on info from ECU & there's the naffest little pot I've ever seen to do the calibration. My tacho also has a little wobble from time to time & if it gets bad I'll
replace the pot as a first fix attempt. Not too bad a job to get at. Dunno what size the pot is (ohms) - if I ever have to fix it then I'll measure it. You can't mistake it, its the only adjustable thing on the tacho PCB" Bob Carter

"Ended up with a bespoke VDO model complete with chrome bezel that is back lit green which is a pretty good but not exact match for the green dials of your speedo. Cost was ca. 60GBP ('cos it was a one off) from ETB in Leigh-on-Sea." David Gethin
At launch the clock was an extra costing £99.95. The part no. for the clock is NA10 V8 550F .

… go search Miata.net

Accessory part nr for this Mark2 Windblocker NC10-V1-260F but no longer available
You can try part N053-68-3x0e-02 black board air and N053-68-3x0e-21 tan board air, this air board doesn't have a brace bar attached.


Sun visor plugs .

. to fill hole left by removing sun visor if you are tall...http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/5812/about.html

Jag bags.

"Can be painted any colour you like. 2 Problems though

1) Made of polypropylene (PP) - normal paint does not stick
2) Is flexible to a degree - normal paint may crack.

These issues are also true of some external panels so bodyshops are geared up to be able to deal with this by the use of the right chemical additives in the paint.

Some good diy solutions are available from accessory shops though... Fromula 40 do a product called polyprep - is a special clear primer for PP that allows normal car paint on top - Works great where I have tried it and won't peel (One reason my mk2 looked immaculate at Billing was I had re-sprayed my easily scratched door pull handles - now much more resiliant and better matt finish than the original)" Chris Coleman

"The’99/Mk2 bar is made so that the glass rear window will fit flush on the package shelf. The new design has rear bracing legs which are angled slightly down. This puts the rear brace plates just before the 'tunnels' into the trunk, hence no cutting on the car for 90-97's. As a side note, I didn't even need a 12" long drill bit to drill all the brace holes. We drilled all three from below in
a matter of minutes."

"Measurements for the M2 HDHC and M2 Sport are ~7" from the lip of the rear deck to the point they go below the carpet line(rear braces). It's _possible_ the subs may just fit due to them being round and curving back in where the bar goes through the deck lid, but without a woofer to lay in there it's impossible to say for sure. The weird thing is an M1 Hardcore HardTop DOES have more room as it's rear braces measure ~10" from the decklid lip...but no hardtop model or equivalent measurement model is available for M2s." Scott Wegener

"..the basic single loop HD .. 1.5" tube, 3mm wall thickness, 304 steel (and only one for a glass rear window). The yield of 304 stainless is 30ksi, the tensile 75ksi, elongation 33%. The vertical legs must stick up over 300mm/12" .. and for this the yield is reached at 200kg .. under 400kg for the pair of legs due to the bending moment. Now my start point for roll over protection was about 2000 kg for the whole frame (weight of car + 100% for dynamics) .. so this basic bar is pretty useless... now I admit the other bars with rear and central triangulation are a lot better and something is better than nothing but I am disappointed. So now I am looking at making a 'real' double hoop roll bar .. although this will not be full height (need to get to that window zip with a glass window) but it will have a high cross bar (to fit between head rest and seat with 2 part seats). This will really just hold the seat belt top pillars together but will built to take the 2000kg at yield in all directions; seems to me there is plenty of strength in these pillars and that it is just a case of loading them widely enough. I am currently looking at 2.1/2" bar but with only 1.6 wall thickness; this is lighter than the HD but stronger in bending where failures occur." MG-S

"Robbins assured me their window was narrower - THEY LIED, I went ahead and put a Robbins top on my '99 with a Hard Dog Sport w/ no diagonals. It does work, barely. It takes a little more care to ease the glass window between the braces when putting the top down" Doug Augustine

"There is a difference between Hard Core and Hard Top versions. The HT version has the same mounting positions and angles as the Sport version, but with thicker materials. This means it sits further back, but is also a little lower, as well as problematic seatbelts. I did not want a bar that I'd hit with my head, therefore the hardtop, even though I don't have ahard top. It is however still close enough to hit my head on, so I've got some extra padding there. It's always a compromise. I'm not sure I'd get it again though, I'm still undecided as to if I like it or not." Mikael Kallerman

Hard Top is lower than a Hard Top but may crop the rear view mirror view a bit.

Moss sell Safety devices ‘Speedster’ bar They won’t say how effective this would be, if you turned your '5' over. Stating these were more cosmetic, but made buy a well established roll cage company.

5Roadster do style bars

has a removable roll bar for track days. Bolt to seat belt mounts and down into footwell. No hope for the softtop off the track but good helmet clearance. "I'm pretty sure Merv Stauffer made it" Jerry Malsam

FIA Spec.
National. Material - 38mmx2.5mm cold drawn seamless steel tube (CDS2)
International
International events require rollcages to have larger diameter main hoops Material - Main Hoops=45x2.5mm/50x2mm CDS2. All other parts=38x2.5mm/42x2mm CDS2

1. £535+vat: Leather seats with vinyl backs in Black or Cream, any colour piping and also includes headrests and gaiter.
2. £595+vat: Full leather seats in Black, Cream or Mild Grey, any colour piping and also includes headrests and gaiter. (The one I went for)
3. £645+vat: Full leather seats, choice of 12 colours, any colour piping and also includes headrests and gaiter.
4. £525+vat: Italian Made leather seats, choice of 12 colours, any colour piping and also includes headrests but NOT the gaiter.
5. £395+vat: Italian Made leather seats, choice of 12 colours, any colour piping and also includes headrests but NOT the gaiter and also does NOT include fitting.

Slip over cover. Hala type slip over covers; price, 29 GBP +VAT

Swedish heated seats;

A friend brought me two sets of pads (two pads per set) from Sweden (where it's even colder than here!).These cost 245SKR a set that's about 16 quid! so both seats plus two rocker switches 99p each local factors under £35. Bargain or what? Each pad is about 30cmsq and fits perfectly. Takes about 30 mins per seat to fit one pad slides under the lower seat cover the other in the rear centre panel just undo the hog rings Plus some creative wiring. So what does this mean? Top down on the coldest days nice toasted bum and kidneys everyone should have them. How to get them. They are supplied by a company call Clas Ohlson www.webmaster@clasohlsen.se http://www.clasohlson.se/ part called Elvarmesats (one per seat; literally electric seat warmer) Part 35-1418-12 price 245 – THEY DO NOT EXPORT L Actually, the closest branch to you guys in the UK should be either one of Oslo, Sandnes, Kristiansand or Bergen, all in Norway. None in Finland. And the mailorder department is, out of tradition (that's where to company was founded), actually situated in Insjön, a tiny city right about in the middle of Sweden.

I have cut the bottom 2" off the bottom seat area – this drops you lower into the seat and allows the side bolsters to grip you more firmly. Trouble is as you are sitting lower that your legs are straighter and so you suffer reduced leg room and less thigh support as a result if you are 6’ tall. To counter this I have raised the front seat mounts by about 5mm – this gives you back the thigh support and hence some of the leg room. Others have cut foam out of the seat backs but this worried me from a crash point of view as the metal is too close. Alternatively do a ‘Mel’ with velcro..

Expensive but you know they fit…. http://www.flash.net/~duetto/catalog.htm

"seat heater is a thin, flexible pad that installs invisibly under the fabric of your existing seat.  Comes complete with wiring and illuminated switch which mounts under the seat" $80 a seat

Mk1 -The seats are Momo Rookies, quite roomy as these seats go, and fit in the Miata easily.

- in Spyder by Les at Apex Racing

s

Mk2 "So I removed the passenger seat and tried both the Cobra Sidewinder (very nice in very close to 10th AE colour)and the Daytona for fit. My conclusion: -to get the seat on the floor inbetween the centre tunnel and the outside, at least one of the 2 reclining knobs (are on both sides of the seat) has to be removed and it's attachment cut off, maybe even both sides). - as soon as the seat is slided backwards from the full forward position or the back is reclined from a full vertical position, the seat's outside shoulder extention will hit the front of the seatbelt pillar (the back is just too wide), making adjustment impossible. There just isn't enough room in the car for these seats. I gave up on this, if anybody can think of any other way, I'm very interested." René Smeen

"Oil pressure gauges .. converting to real ones; Is the stock sender up to the task? If I install the new gauge before I get a sender, will it at least operate like the idiot gauge, or will I be without any information at all?
Using the idiot light sending unit with the gauge designed for a resistive sending unit will result in your "real" gauge going full over to max pressure indicated whenever the key is on but the the engine is off (no oil pressure, switch closed to ground). When the engine is running and oil pressure is present, the idiot light sending unit switch opens and now the "real" gauge will indicate zero pressure Take your VIN to the US Mazda Customer relations (USA 800-222-5500) and ask them if your car originally came with one (to find if part fitted to car)"

Ash tray units; "It's called Mini Box part nr N001 V0 500F. I have one in my car and it's perfect for storing my sunglasses, the inside is covered with some felt to avoid scratches and rattles." Francois

Dashboard changes;

"On the MK1/MK2 dash point - the MK1 Car has had TWO dash styles in its life that are SIMILAR but different enough for parts to be changed in the trim level. HOWEVER in the UK spec car we didn't really see the change as it was associated with passenger airbags from memory on LHD cars. The piece that I am fully conversant with is 1/4 light demisters which changed shape around 1994 on LHD drive cars from oblong to sort of oval. I have NOT found a UK MK1 car with the modified 1/4 demisters, but no doubt someone out there will now contradict this 10 fold, and I believe the statement to be true for the imported Roadsters.

Anyway, my understanding is that for a MK1 UK or Roadster owner you would always need MK1 car parts and stay with 1/4 trim for the early car when offered a choice UNLESS you know the 1/4 demisters on your car are an oval basis rather than oblong." Andy Fox

I offer a second vote for the D cut Mazda Speed wheel. It's a 350 mm wheel, just a bit smaller than the 360 mm stocker. You can still see the gauges, but the D cut allows you the extra room at your legs. I also used the MS adapter for the 323 non air bag wheel. Easy to use and cheap! Just pop out the contact plate or cut a part of it out and snip the horn wire off the hub adapter that would have gone to the non airbag horn wire. Slips on *perfectly* and the existing hole is large enough to fit the clock spring wires through. Then it's just a mater of butting the air bag wires together, (with a resister, if necessary), and you're ready to install the wheel. The Mazda Speed wheel comes with a

horn button too. Eric Vaillancourt

SRP Racing make custom aluminum pedals covers